I went back and forth about which hotel to book for days. I wanted somewhere special to celebrate a solo time away from work and responsibilities and to also attribute the celebration towards my 30th birthday and bachelorette celebration. As I've approached 30, my priorities have changed in terms of travel. Something about trying the best hotels, best authentic experience, and best food selfishly does something to my body. The ultimate form of gluttony that I believe I deserve. I want to know why it's the best, even if I'm not sure I'd like it. Exhibit A was knowing that I wanted to trying Kakurega Omakase. I never thought it was worth it to go out for omakase back home because I don't enjoy raw fish and sushi all that much, plus I have a lot of allergies, some unexplored and unknown. If you're like a spoiler, I loved it and would be back under some conditions.

Based on the title of this post, you know that I landed on Hotel Terrestre. After some exploration, you'll find that this hotel isn't in Puerto Escondido proper at all, but about 30 km northwest up the coast. Many taxis and private shuttles can take you here, but I was excited to have my own car to drive at my own pace and have the freedom to go as I please. I'd highly recommend a car in Puerto Escondido or if you want to explore other coastal Oaxacan towns like Mazunte, Huatulco, or drive all the way to Acapulco. Many strangers turned friends that I met however, did not have a car and hired a driver or taxi.

This area of land is owned by the Sodi family whose fingerprints can be seen all over town. Farmland, beautifully designed restaurants, bars, beachside stays, and the famous Casa Wabi residency. When you finally arrive here from the main highway, you arrive at a guard station who will ask where you are going. About ten more minutes down a dirt road, you'll find yourself in an unassuming area that leads to the entrance to the hotel.

A sustainable stay has recently been on my list of priorities when traveling. The first place I stayed was in Spokane, Washington at a property called Blockhouse which focuses on a net-zero guest experience made from sustainable materials. Hotel Terrestre couldn't be more different and for being surrounded by nature, so much more luxurious. Everything is solar-powered, and you'll notice that at night, the lights flicker as if they are encouraging you to sync your body to the sun and start to wind down. They provided everything you could need. A semi-outdoor shower, books to read, a minibar, coffee station, clean robes, linens, towels, and sufficient hygiene products. I was so anxious to take advantage of the various pools, hammam, and meals that were included.

I won't lie, coming here had me stressed out because I wanted to take full advantage of this gift I had given myself. That meant swimming in each pool, eating every meal, using every toilet. Guiltily, I'll admit that I tried planning it out on my Notes app and rushed through some parts. I could barely sit still because of how beautiful and unique it was and I wouldn't let myself fall asleep on my own private hammock, read a book in my own private patio overlooking the jungle, and even ate two dinners, mostly because I had no idea that dinner was included and I had already made a reservation at Kakurega. You will also notice that I took photos of everything, going against the idea of being fully present, but I'd argue that for me, this is being present.

As I made my way through the property, I began to feel myself let go. Something about being surrounded by a nearly unplugged atmosphere was so calming. Even the reception desk was built in a way where you couldn't even see if the staff was using a computer or not and I loved that they kept it rugged, yet as luxurious as possible.

I believe that the price tag really is about the all-encompassing experience here, not just the room. The room was beautiful, but definitely not the best part. In fact, I barely spent time in my room. My first duty as a guest was to swim in the lap pool. It's 20 meters long and for having 14 groups per night, always super private, serene, and stunning. The laps I swam in this pool were the first laps I've swam in years. The length, temperature, surroundings were perfection and I couldn't have been more carefree. I loved the dual staircases in and out of the pool, the various daybeds where I laid my things and sunhat provided, and minimal views of the rest of the property. The way the landscaping is done promotes privacy, so I never felt like I was being looked at and also felt like I never saw any other guests, except at dinner or when walking around the paths.

After a long day, and two-days of traveling in high-energy Puerto Escondido, it was about time to celebrate the fact I was even here with a drink at their own bar, named Lunático. They have their own menu and I opted for a simple jamaica mezcal margarita. As you walk to Lunático, you cross the main dirt path outside the hotel towards the coast. You'll find small touches like disco balls along the way leading you to a sleepy, yet artfully designed bar where you feel just enough sparkle to exercise your vices just a bit. The bar then leads you to the ocean where they have a few blocks for tables, umbrellas, and well-designed touches to facilitate sunset watching and sounds of waves crashing. Swimming not recommended.

The coastline was quiet, yet loud all at once. I felt like the only woman on earth even though I was accompanied by some couples nearby.

Knowing me and my inclination to being a bit high-strung, I drank my drink a bit faster than I should have to make time to get ready and get to dinner which began at 8pm. They don't tell you the menu and it changes every day. By the time I was done with my immaculate shower and my double dinner getting ready routine, I grabbed a flashlight provided by the hotel, and made my way on the sandy path to the restaurant. It doesn't have a name other than that. I was served right away and I was lucky to have a delicious mix of tataki and pizza. I don't know how I did it, but I have grown to love a local, fresh, raw fish, yet the inner child in me was happy to know it was pizza night. Something comforting and simple. I chose salami. I hate half to save my appetite and finished off my first dinner with a pistachio ice cream. Dining alone was great. I felt like I got a few looks, as if I was some kind of secret shopper, but truly, I just didn't want to be on my phone too much at dinner in a beautiful place, so I brought a notebook and drafted up a potential seating arrangement for my upcoming wedding. Another spoiler is that the seating arrangement changed many times since. Furthermore, it allowed me to carefully observe and listen, even help out a couple when they were trying to get a waiter's attention.

I will be talking about my dinner at Kakurega in another page, but after those two meals, I was full on both the food and beverage front.

The next morning was a full day of more relaxing. I wanted to make use of my beautiful room, an hour-long slot at the hammam, as well as the other pool where they usually do massages. Looking back, I wish I had stayed another night because what ended up happening was that my flight home was cancelled and I ended up staying in a hostel with twelve other friends that I met at the nearby Casa Wabi.

The beautiful designed hammam includes a cold plunge, steam, jacuzzi, & tepid section. Each guest gets an hour per day to have their own time slot and private spa where they can relax and cycle through each of the rooms. There are also changing areas and benches to sit on. As I was swapping through all the rooms, I was continuously in awe of the way light and shadow was used. My time was in the late afternoon, but I'd love to return and see how light changes here throughout the day. The way the bricks were placed gives everything a very symmetrical look all while giving way for interesting and abstract shapes. While being brutalist in modern terms, it is definitely reminiscent of ancient mesoamerican architecture.

The way that everything here is designed is supposed to leave the landscape as untouched as possible, while making use of natural resources, local artisans, wood. Even the breeze, sun, and structures work in harmony to keep the spaces free of air-conditioning, while still being a comfortable stay for guests. I learned that "inside furnishings, either custom or by Mexican architect Oscar Hagerman, are crafted from such natural materials as jute and tzalam".

The room is just part of what made the experience at Terrestre so amazing. No air-conditioning, but never uncomfortable. There is a sliding door of various blinds so you can choose how much light you'd like to let in. I prepped mine to be fully open as the sun rose. I unfortunately was too buzzed to sleep properly and I also had anxious dreams of my friends not texting me to make sure they made it back home. It so happens they were stranded in Hermosillo and I'm sure they won't ever forgive me for it. The room comes equipped with straw hats to wear under the hot sun as well as minimal furniture that is perfect for reading and relaxation. The doors open up behind the property to a vast view of the Sierras.

On the top floor, each of the 14 rooms has its own pool, hammock, and patio. Water was provided on both floors as well as a variety of spots to rest and admire the surroundings.

Moving outside of the rooms, guests can schedule massages in a different pool area, but outside of those times, they are free to enjoy that amenity as well. This pool is circular and has warm water and views of the gardens.

For my last new hours, I swam, I ate, I met with friends I dined with at Kakurega, and slowly made my way back to Puerto Escondido Airport where I then realized my flight was delayed. I found a Japanese ramen restaurant in the city to ease my sorrows, I grabbed a last drink at Almoraduz, and stayed in a hostel where I was too grossed out to shower while twelve friends from Cancun kept me up all night, yet very kind. I met a stranger at the airport from north of LA whom I spent an adventure to Huatulco with to get back to Los Angeles through Mexico City, met another friend on his way to Puerto, and I would not have changed a thing!